Is your moisturizer actually causing your acne?

Everyone wants their skin to look and feel good. No one wants pimples or blackheads and include moisturizing their skin an important step in their beauty routine. One important ingredient in common moisturizers and lotions is Isopropyl Palmitate. But is it doing more harm than good? Read on to find out!

Figure 1: Girl looking in the mirror and seeing a pimple
Source: https://www.sheideas.com/causes-of-acne/(accessed Feb 4th, 2018)

What is it?

Isopropyl Palmitate is an ester of isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid [1]. The molecular formula is C19H38O2 and has a molecular weight of 298.5 g/mol [2]. Its IUPAC name is Propan-2-yl hexadecanoate [2]. In its simplest form it is a colourless, almost odorless liquid [1].

What does it do?

Isopropyl Palmitate acts as a binder in moisturizing products for the skin. It is an emollient which means it helps prevent dryness as well as protects the skin [3]. With this ingredient, products are able to spread smoothly on the skin and bind effectively [1]. In technical products it acts as a lubricating agent and solvent [1]. It does not have any carcinogenic effects and is virtually non-toxic. It does however cause mild irritation if it touches the eye[2]. But that’s also true for a lot of other things that could come in contact with your eyes.

It Is found in many different products. To name a few, it can be found in moisturizers, lipsticks, foundations, sunscreens, deodorants, hair treatments, after shave, paper products, coatings and inks. Some odd ones include metal working fluids and hydraulic fluids as well as pesticides and disinfectants [1].

What is the problem?

The problem with Isopropyl Palmitate is that it had Comedogenic potential[4]. What’s that? It means that it has a tendency to promote the formation of comedones commonly known as clogged pores [4]. When something has comedogenic potential it prohibits the natural excretion of sebum and dead skin cells from the follicle [4]. The comedic potential of Isopropyl Palmitate is 5 on the 1-5 scale [4]!! 1-5% of this in your products will not likely make you break out, unless you have really sensitive skin.

Don’t want to use products with this anymore? There are some alternatives! Coconut oil is a common alternative that is just as helpful for the skin [5].

References: 

[1] GPS Safety Summary, Isopropyl Palmitate, 2012. BASF.  http://product-finder.basf.com/group/corporate/product-  finder/en/literature-document:/GPS+Safety+Summaries--Isopropyl+palmitate-English.pdf. (accessed Jan 15, 2018).

[2] Open Chemistry Database. Isopropyl Palmitate. PubChem.    https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/isopropyl_palmitate#section=Top. (accessed Jan 15, 2018).

[3] Chenery, N. Natural Alternatives to chemicals in Skincare and Cosmetics Adapted from “Organic Natural Living”.http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~pvzalm/earthhaven/Safe-Natural-Organic%3F.html#anchor307958, (accessed Jan 28, 2018).

[4] Comedongenic Ingredients. https://www.simonsons.com/docs/Comedogenic_Ingredients_Information_Folio_12.5.14.pdf.(accessed Jan 20, 2018)

[5]Pellot, E. What are the Dangers of Isopropyl Palmitate. https://www.leaf.tv/articles/what-are-the-dangers-of-isopropyl-palmitate/.   (accessed Jan 20, 2018)